Soil growers!

My Steps

1. Let the media dry out pretty good with the plant you want to transplant
2. Fill your larger pot with media of choice
3. Feed the media with no plant in it (Low strength example Ec 1.2 ) over water it a lot you want to balance the media to what the plant is use to… (Feed and Ph).
4. When Leach water is the same as Feed water (Ec and Ph) plant your girl in her new home
5. Let the new pot dry out good before you water again

This is what I do but I’m sure you will find other people do it different ways

Hey Doug
Good question? I’ve never transplanted from pot to pot. I just select the size pot it’s going to stay placed…check out GrowWeedEasy. I was refer to this site, when I’m loaded with questions. It’s

With soil you need to start in a small pot and work your way up…

If you start off in a big pot in soil your roots will drown in water… Just takes to long for the media to dry out

If I watered anymore, we would be H2O depleted. Canvas smart pots are fantastic for soil. You need to water ever other day I find any way.

My blue lab pH meter went bad and they are sending me a new one under warranty so I have be manually pHing. Looks like the have an some have an iron deficiency or something. Any input appreciated. If there is a speed bump along they way I have definitely been hitting them all. I plan on repotting today once new meter is here. The plant on the far left is thrash today. I am using an organic soil and have some nutrient rich soil. Should I blend them 50/50 or just stick with organic soil? I am feeding with house and garden full line of products is why I am asking just don’t want to over do it. @buzzy6 @Mpower11 @Vicc @Brotherbuddah

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When your new pen gets here, you’ll want to do a pour through to check soil pH. Looks like your having more of a lockout than deficiency. Ideal cannabis pH is 5.5-6.5. There’s lots of good charts on google of the different ranges for nutrients to be absorbed in the root zone.
As for the soil, I wouldn’t worry about transplanting until you get the health of the plants back. The roots on those plants aren’t nearly ready and you could end up just making things worse.
My pour through method:

1. pH 5 gallons of water to 5.5
2. Fully saturate the plants that you will be checking pH for.
3. After they have been saturated to a solid run off, you’re going to put the plant and pot in a bowl or something clean to collect the runoff from a 500-1000ml pour through.
4. Your checking the difference between the 5.5pH and whatever comes out of your plants soil.
5. Depending what way the number swings you will pour at least 2 gallons of properly pH water, 1pH from your goal. If you pour through and the pH is 7 and your goal is 6 you’re going to pour 4.5-5pH water through at 2 gallons a plant.
6. After the pour through check the pH again and repeat the process to get it correct.
7. After the pH is closer to proper, mix up a cal-mag solution, pH it to .5 lower than your goal and reintroduce it to the soil.
8. After the process you will want to let the plants dry back almost fully before repeating the entire process to make sure the pH is right.

Kind of lengthy but you should see some improvements within a week

Thanks for the advice. I will follow that protocol. I have a soil ph pen frrom blue lab as well just purchased. The ph pen will be here today as well. @Brotherbuddah

One quick comment this is correct for hydro (example Grobo / coco )

But for soil ph range is 6 to 7

I think to answer this correctly the question would be what kind of soil are you using (what is it made up of). Is there any time released nutes in it? Was the soils you purchased purpose to be used for Cannabis?

As for the plants looks like Cal/Mag or Nute lockout from Ph

In soil, manganese is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.0 – 7.0 pH range (some growers recommend keeping the pH slightly lower, from 6.0 – 6.5, if you suspect a manganese deficiency in particular)

Yes soil was purposed for cannibas growing.

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One thing with organic soil is most of the time growers don’t feed there seedlings any nutes because the soil is rich in nutes from the organic matter… They start to feed the plants nutes when they show signs of needing it.

I haven’t tried growing in organic soil before so I’m not sure if I’m the right person to offer a guide on this one… I just don’t want to steer you in the wrong direction… All my past soil grows have been in a peat moss mix

Well I got my plants flushed out and boy was that a task. Ph 7.3 to start. End pH-6.2. Only easy part was pHing with that new soil pH pen as a side note I also tested leach water just to see if there was any differences between the two. They were both spot on. Hopefully I don’t have any more hiccups at least for a little while. Think I know how pH got so far off. I didn’t realize once u have nutrients in water and u pH before adding any boosters the pH solution should be diluted otherwise it causes a chemical reaction and pH swings. Saw it on a grow video channel and tested it out pretty weird to say at the least. Thanks guys for the advice once again saving my plants from imminent death. @Brotherbuddah @Mpower11 @buzzy6

So the last few weeks have went by with any hiccups. Plants have been growing at a phenomenal rate. Soil pH is good at 6.4. I am feeding once a week with nutrients and supplementing cal/mag as well. A couple of days ago all plants looked fine and today some type of deficiency is showing. Cal/mag? In between nutrient dosing I am only providing ph’ed water. First pic is a few days ago and the bottom two are from this morning. Deficiency seems to be only showing on new growth! @buzzy6 @Mpower11 @Brotherbuddah @vegetato

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What exactly are you dosing, and what’s the temperature like in the tent?

My first guess would be that it’s just due to salt buildup - but since you just flushed it out recently maybe not.

It doesn’t look like cal or mag given it’s the new growth and not the oldest, more like manganese/zinc or something else.

Perhaps it’s just airflow or temperature-related?

Are you using distilled water in the humidifier as well?

This page might help if you don’t already reference it, by the way: Nutrient Knowledge: Marijuana Plant Nutrient Deficiency & Excess Chart

Those charts can help to point out what it is, but be careful to take that info with care and not just start adding what it looks like it’s missing, as most times it’s probably another factor that’s causing it.

For example, it could be taking in too much of some other nutrient and just doesn’t have the appetite or energy/ability to locate and take in another. Maybe it’s just too warm, or needs just water and no nutes (maybe cal//mag) for a while, etc. Need more info as to what’s going in first.

Vpd1.1 to 1.3. Temps with lights on consistent at 78-79 Fahrenheit.Lights off temps 71-73 Fahrenheit. I did add supplemental fan at plant level and medium speed early this week. Humidifier using filtered watered not distilled. Humidity holding at 60-65%

Just re-read some of the prior replies here, if there’s nutrients in the soil you could just be overfeeding with additonal nutes.

If the humidifier’s been running there could be nutrients in that water it’s taking in (to consider when adding to soil) if it’s not distilled/low ppm.

Crazy thing is it is only two out of the three and they are all recieving same nutrients and everything. I will try and give update later tonite after I get off work. @vegetato

Do you always feed them in the same order? Reason I ask is depending on how well the solution is mixed the first or last one might be receiving more of something than another… that could be resolved by mixing it more thoroughly or adjusting which gets fed first to balance it out.

If this were mine, I’d just be cutting back on the nutes, down to bare minimum cal/mag and a very little bit of primary (npk) until the current issue is resolved.

When feeding I do stir nutrients in between each plant to make sure they are evenly distributed. Will adjust feeding as suggested