U can automate it even more by hooking up water supply with float valve so it automatically fills.
If I built one I would add a float…
Right now that’s how I’m setup my humidifier… I no longer have to fill that tank anymore so happy about that
This is my unit… If anything it on the over kill side… It’s a beast
I saw that one. I would need a bigger setup for that bad boy!
Stick ur finger in the bottom of the pot an see if it’s dry if not just stick ur finger in thru the top an see how dry it is
How often do you give your cannabis water?
Well, you will want to water your marijuana whenever the top of the soil or growing medium starts to feel dry. I like to water when the medium feel dry up to my first knuckle, or about an inch.
Soil – Water plants when the soil feels dry up to your first knuckle (or if the pot feels light).
Coco Coir – Aim to water plants every 1-2 days. If coco is staying wet for 3+ days, try giving less water at a time until plants get bigger and start drinking more. Don’t wait for your coco coir to dry out, but don’t water if the top inch feels “wet”. If the container feels light, it’s definitely time to water!
How to water cannabis properly (when using a well-draining potting mixture with liquid nutrients)…
In soil, wait until the topsoil feels dry about an inch deep (up to your first knuckle – just use your finger to poke a hole in the soil and see if it feels dry).
In coco coir, you want to water every 1-2 days if possible and adjust the amount of water you give accordingly. The top inch doesn’t need to completely dry out between waterings.
If you’re regularly adding nutrients in the water, give enough water each time that you get 10-20% extra runoff water drain out the bottom of your pot. This prevents a buildup in the potting mixture because otherwise, you are continuously adding more nutrients to the system.
Go back to step 1. Note: If water takes a long time to come out the bottom, or if pots take longer than 5 days to dry out before the next watering, you may actually have a problem with drainage (more info below) or need to give less water at a time. If your plants are very small compared to the container they’re in, give water more sparingly until plants get bigger.
You can install a moisture meter to us a guide👍
- Let the media dry out pretty good with the plant you want to transplant
- Fill your larger pot with media of choice
- Feed the media with no plant in it (Low strength example Ec 1.2 ) over water it a lot you want to balance the media to what the plant is use to… (Feed and Ph).
- When Leach water is the same as Feed water (Ec and Ph) plant your girl in her new home
- Let the new pot dry out good before you water again
This is what I do but I’m sure you will find other people do it different ways
Good question? I’ve never transplanted from pot to pot. I just select the size pot it’s going to stay placed…check out GrowWeedEasy. I was refer to this site, when I’m loaded with questions. It’s
With soil you need to start in a small pot and work your way up…
If you start off in a big pot in soil your roots will drown in water… Just takes to long for the media to dry out
If I watered anymore, we would be H2O depleted. Canvas smart pots are fantastic for soil. You need to water ever other day I find any way.
My blue lab pH meter went bad and they are sending me a new one under warranty so I have be manually pHing. Looks like the have an some have an iron deficiency or something. Any input appreciated. If there is a speed bump along they way I have definitely been hitting them all. I plan on repotting today once new meter is here. The plant on the far left is thrash today. I am using an organic soil and have some nutrient rich soil. Should I blend them 50/50 or just stick with organic soil? I am feeding with house and garden full line of products is why I am asking just don’t want to over do it. @buzzy6 @Mpower11 @Vicc @Brotherbuddah
When your new pen gets here, you’ll want to do a pour through to check soil pH. Looks like your having more of a lockout than deficiency. Ideal cannabis pH is 5.5-6.5. There’s lots of good charts on google of the different ranges for nutrients to be absorbed in the root zone.
As for the soil, I wouldn’t worry about transplanting until you get the health of the plants back. The roots on those plants aren’t nearly ready and you could end up just making things worse.
My pour through method:
- pH 5 gallons of water to 5.5
- Fully saturate the plants that you will be checking pH for.
- After they have been saturated to a solid run off, you’re going to put the plant and pot in a bowl or something clean to collect the runoff from a 500-1000ml pour through.
- Your checking the difference between the 5.5pH and whatever comes out of your plants soil.
- Depending what way the number swings you will pour at least 2 gallons of properly pH water, 1pH from your goal. If you pour through and the pH is 7 and your goal is 6 you’re going to pour 4.5-5pH water through at 2 gallons a plant.
- After the pour through check the pH again and repeat the process to get it correct.
- After the pH is closer to proper, mix up a cal-mag solution, pH it to .5 lower than your goal and reintroduce it to the soil.
- After the process you will want to let the plants dry back almost fully before repeating the entire process to make sure the pH is right.
Kind of lengthy but you should see some improvements within a week
Thanks for the advice. I will follow that protocol. I have a soil ph pen frrom blue lab as well just purchased. The ph pen will be here today as well. @Brotherbuddah
One quick comment this is correct for hydro (example Grobo / coco )
But for soil ph range is 6 to 7
I think to answer this correctly the question would be what kind of soil are you using (what is it made up of). Is there any time released nutes in it? Was the soils you purchased purpose to be used for Cannabis?
As for the plants looks like Cal/Mag or Nute lockout from Ph
In soil, manganese is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.0 – 7.0 pH range (some growers recommend keeping the pH slightly lower, from 6.0 – 6.5, if you suspect a manganese deficiency in particular)
Yes soil was purposed for cannibas growing.
One thing with organic soil is most of the time growers don’t feed there seedlings any nutes because the soil is rich in nutes from the organic matter… They start to feed the plants nutes when they show signs of needing it.
I haven’t tried growing in organic soil before so I’m not sure if I’m the right person to offer a guide on this one… I just don’t want to steer you in the wrong direction… All my past soil grows have been in a peat moss mix
Well I got my plants flushed out and boy was that a task. Ph 7.3 to start. End pH-6.2. Only easy part was pHing with that new soil pH pen as a side note I also tested leach water just to see if there was any differences between the two. They were both spot on. Hopefully I don’t have any more hiccups at least for a little while. Think I know how pH got so far off. I didn’t realize once u have nutrients in water and u pH before adding any boosters the pH solution should be diluted otherwise it causes a chemical reaction and pH swings. Saw it on a grow video channel and tested it out pretty weird to say at the least. Thanks guys for the advice once again saving my plants from imminent death. @Brotherbuddah @Mpower11 @buzzy6
So the last few weeks have went by with any hiccups. Plants have been growing at a phenomenal rate. Soil pH is good at 6.4. I am feeding once a week with nutrients and supplementing cal/mag as well. A couple of days ago all plants looked fine and today some type of deficiency is showing. Cal/mag? In between nutrient dosing I am only providing ph’ed water. First pic is a few days ago and the bottom two are from this morning. Deficiency seems to be only showing on new growth! @buzzy6 @Mpower11 @Brotherbuddah @vegetato