Everything Flora Flex

Thanks for that!
I was reading about how to feed and wasnt sure that floraflex was using the same meaning for the abbreviations.

This is what I was reading…

All formulas are meant to have a starting water EC of 0.2 – 0.3, you can get up to, but should not exceed, an EC of 0.7 – 0.8. If you are using RO water with an EC of 0 then bring your EC up to 0.2 – 0.3 by adding hard/tap water, but most people find success by adding a Cal-Mag. Pure water with no dissolved salts has no buffering capacity and therefore the pH is difficult to predict or control. Blending in some municipal water usually adds a little bicarbonate which gives a little buffer capacity to the water making pH control easier.

While the pH of your fertilized water going into the medium is important, many agree that the water inside and/or coming out of your medium/drain water, what the roots are uptaking, is of the utmost importance. The pH of your drain water should be maintained between 5.3 – 6.3 to maximize your plants ability to absorb the necessary nutrients. Our nutrients have been tested in different water sources and mediums, and were found to consistently remain between these optimized levels.

If you are utilizing other additives with no NPK values then you will keep the amounts of suggested rates. But if you are adding other additives with NPK values, you should decrease the amount of FloraFlex Nutrients. Keep in mind we have formulated these blends to not need any additional NPK value.

Some growers flush weekly in Bloom, others do it a few times on designated days (before and/or during traumatic or stressful occurrences such as defoliation), while some only flush when they see the plants starting to show signs of excess salt build up within the medium or stress signs from their plants, such as the edges of the leaves spiking up. If and or when you flush use a lower ratio of fertilized water between 0.7 – 1.0. Ideal water temperatures for your fertilized water are in the range of 60° – 75°.

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Looking at the pictures here on your setup you can lower your light a lot if you want. (when your ready to grow)

Everything you just posted on what you are reading makes sense to me what part of that are you unsure of? Maybe I can help with general information since I don’t have there nutes, I don’t plan to use there nutes on the first grow really only because I have alot of stock I want to use up first (different brand)

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One more thing I forgot to mention I plan on maybe using a pump but don’t want to use a air stone to circulate and mix the water in the reservoir haven’t quite figured out exactly what I want to do there yet but one of the reasons why I don’t wanna use an air stone is because it adds air in the water which could make your PH fluctuate.

Thinking about maybe a pump on a timer come on so many times a day to keep reservoir mixed

Something to think about not sure what @chris_barfield is doing for this maybe he has a better idea (maybe he doesn’t even mix his reservoir not sure)

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Not sure either (Chris).
I didn’t incorporate an air stone in my reservoir mainly because I didn’t see one being used in the flora flex models but I could be wrong!
I thought you only needed a air stone in water cultured hydroponics, and figured with the coco and drip system it wouldn’t be necessary.
If I’m wrong I’m hoping someone will speak up and save me some time on research.

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I agree that you wouldn’t want a air stone in your reservoir tank but I think it would be beneficial to have something in there to mix (turn the water around X amount of times a day) just thinking out loud.

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My pump comes with a bottom feeder but I would think that the pressure from the pump may be enough to be used like a agitator.
I’m going to be paying attention that’s for sure!

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So I didn’t like the velcro idea holding my quick connect and since I didn’t want to add any more holes I found this water proof tape that seems to work really well.
p.s. I found the tape at walmart.

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I found a hose to fit under on the shut off valve I installed under the tray and led it out towards the green rubber maid to dispose of run off. I might need to switch that to a bucket that would be easier to carry later.

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So now I’m down to learning how to feed, what additives I would need and how to set the timer on the power plug for the lights to come on during off peak time.
If anyone can think of any last minute changes or better ideas they think I need I’m all ears!

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@Bplatinum9 so in terms of ec/ppm we can’t really decide that for you as each plant and each phenotype of that plant is different… but for veg I creep up to 1.6 ec and hold there until I’m two weeks into flower and the plant is eating more … now word of advice you don’t have to follow those exact guidelines for temp humidity etc etc… this plant is a weed and will push through a ton of abuse … if you saw what I used to put my plants through when I first started you would be amazed at the results…

As far as feeding schedule just use the original formula to start with … then build from there … the original feeding schedule gave me excellent results… now for npk with floraflex u don’t need additives sort of… now if your talking bloom booster and p k additives you won’t need them . All you would do is adjust the b2 amounts when mixing in bloom. Floraflex is designed for cannabis so they worked that out. So for instance if you are wanting the same results as a bloom booster what I did was (example) used 1gram of b1 and then 1.25 grams of b2 because b2 is the pk . Instead of wasting money and trying to mathematically figure how to adjust floraflex nutes to accommodate other additives and their ratios … it’s just pointless…

For the reservoir you don’t need air stones since roots are not inside the res… I would do what @Mpower11 does and have a pump just recicurclate the water here and there… I don’t mix my nutes in the res. Not saying don’t do it I just don’t …

BUT the most improper at factor is don’t stress out about proper ratios or temps as long as you are within 68-84 degrees and your lead tips aren’t burning you are good … ive grown in 90 percent humdity all the way through flower and had great results and I’ve grown in 20
Percent humidity from seed/clone to flower and I was good. these are all guidelines to base shit off but even breeders don’t really pay attention to that cuz it makes the buds unique and not all uniform… let the plants grow and learn from how the plants grow instead of what the internet tells you … it’s the best way to
Learn … all the reading in the world couldn’t show me how to solve problems when they arises … it was trial and error that taught me what I know …

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You also need to plug the bubbler lines that you aren’t connecting anything to or else they will shoot water everywher

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And if you are creating enough run off you wouldn’t have to flush… creating enough run off in coco is how you flush it… just make sure ph is on point and you are good… setting up timers nobody will really be able to help as you have to decide when you run your light also it depends on how much your plants are feeding and etc etc… best advice is to pop those seeds and get to growing … during veg you still want to let the pots dry out to build a root mass… so you won’t need to feed often during veg unless you are in veg for a really long time… they start to really feed during bloom…

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First things first I really appreciate your help!!!
By EC you mean the strength of the flora flex nutes?
So I don’t have to add anything with the nutrients unless I run into a def issue and need cal mag?
I planned to mix nutrients in a bucket and add it to the reservoir.
So as far as my pump, is that enough to keep the water circulating?
I’m like you when it comes to exact temps and such, I keep in range and go by what the plant says, the only thing I use in the grobo is the water temp indicator only because I have high temps but if they don’t go pass 73 I don’t worry about it.
I’m gonna fire this thing up after my grandmothers funeral and I’ll be asking more questions I’m sure along the way so Thanks in advance! You’ve been a big help!
Here goes nothing!

What do the other lines need to be connected to?

Researching the best times now Thank you!
How do you know how often to feed? Is it as simple as when the water gets low?

Just cut the extra floraflex line into small pieces then connect them to the extra bubblers

What extra bubbler?
Are you talking about the leads on the quick connect?
If I connect more lines how do I stop them from just waisting water in the tray for me to discard?

Maybe you can run the extra drip lines back into the reservoir tank?

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Perfect :ok_hand: idea :bulb:Seems like they should of had some caps though! Until then I’m on it…
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Silly me I thought I would be good with just my ph pen running a tent grow but,
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it looks like I’m in need of a conductivity pen also to test the EC in the nute water.
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