Tent Growers

55 is borderline for me. Adding humidity will improve your early grow cycles. If you’re concerned about mold especially the powdery mold that would attack your cannabis plant simply add a fan or two. Mold needs stagnant air. Improving the air flow in your place will fix a lot of your mold issues.If you have a hydrometer you’ll notice with lights off that your RH actually goes up. Where I live In Illinois my rH without a humidifier is 60ish

Temps and humidity (I run my tent slightly higher in all aspects in the below)

Temps and humidity

Seedling Stage

(Germination) lights 18/6 or 20/4

  • Seedlings and clones like high humidity levels of 65-75%
  • Reason: The root system is not established
  • High humidity levels allow water intake through leaves
  • Temperatures with lights on: 68-77 degrees (lights off: 4-5 C° lower)

Vegetation Period - lights 18/6 or 20/4

  • Humidity levels can be lowered by 5% each week (acceptable range: 40-70% - ideally 65-75%)
  • Temperatures can be increased a little bit (no obligation - no higher than 86)
  • Co2 during veg - add if needed
  • Reason: Roots absorb more water; evaporation through leaves cools plant(s). If you’re soil is drying out quickly then your roots are drinking a lot to cool the top of the plant. If temps are high you may consider adjusting your light, add a fan, check exhaust, improve airflow intakes, ect.
  • Temperatures with lights on: 71-82 (can be higher if using c02)
  • Lights off: 4-5 C° lower - if you have a strong light or a light that puts off a lot of heat the reduction of heat happens on its own once the light is off - watch for extreme temp changes and adjust if needed)

Flowering Stage - lights 12/12

(important reduce rH for this stage)

  • You can get away with 55% (anything over 60% is real bad)
  • Push more co2 high for the 1st 4 weeks of stretch/flower
  • It’s best to slightly lower temperatures in flowering
  • Temperatures with lights on: 68-78.8 (avoid high temperatures if possible

Dialing In temps and humidity in a grow space is 90% of growers problems (made this stat up). It’s difficult to maintain perfect conditions so just try to get close. If you get close you’ll be fine. My current grow saw rH of 75-85% all the way from seed to flower where I started stepping it down 5% using a dehumidifier just prior to flip. It’s important to note that a dehumidifier will raise temps slightly depending on your unit

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Again very helpful guide. I have my nutes and the soil was frog soil so Im thinking Maybe Sunday for first feed or should I wait another week?

I know frog sells a lot of varieties of soil. Without knowing which it’s hard to say, but a lot of soils come rich in nutrients already. Some folks add all types of Organics to their soil such as fish sh!t, bat sh!t, fishbone, potash, nitrogen ect ect ect. I use a supersoil mixed with an assortment of stuff so I only used ph’d tap water for almost 2 months before “needing” to feed. My tap is not hard nor soft it’s in a sweet spot, but it’s slightly higher pH than my idea of great.

Depending on your water and nutrients, rule of thumb is start with 25% the recommended doses of nutrients, testing run off each watering (if dedicated). Gradually stepping it up. If you’re using a quality soil my guess is you won’t need nutrients for a while. It’s really just personal preference. Some folks heavily feed from the start w/ success. I forget the guys name here on AG, but he posted some lovely pics of his garage grow and works in a metal shop or something. He mentioned he spiked nutes the whole grow and uses a heavily fertilized soil w/ manure, bat guano ect ect and still was spiking nutes. His plants were very nice under HPS lights of memory serves.

Most growers favour a high N (nitrogen) feed. An NPK ratio of 3:1:1 during the growth phase. A highly effective NPK formula is 1-3-2 for early to mid-bloom, followed by 0-3-3 for late bloom. If you’re using a feeding chart provided by the manufacturer they’re already accounting for the above. Add a final flush of pure water and/or light flushing solution during the final week for flavor. Fun Fact, reducing temps a lot in the final weeks of the plants life cycle will help your buds change color, but note the plant will mature slower by doing so and could be harmful to your plant if too cold.

I recently Checked out that “3lb a light guy” selling insanely priced 300$ book that can be found for free on torrent sites and pushing success nutrients w/ schwazzing in a step-by-step to success. Basically the Tony Robbins Of cannabis now (waiting for someone else to release “4lbs a light” :man_shrugging::joy:). I have a schwazz underway, but I won’t be buying “success nutrients” anytime soon.

The easiest thing to do is use a ppm/ec meter to test your plants run off. Water your plants soil until you see about 25% run off. I use small plastic syringes to collect some of that fluid from the drain container and test, but anything you can use that’s sterile to collect it will work (you want accurate test results). There are plenty of ideal ppm charts/ calculators online for different strains and growth stages. I recently spiked nutrients for the 1st week of flower and noticed my run off was significantly higher ppms (2500ish) than where I wanted it. This indicates over feeding and will likely result in some discoloration in Leaves or worse lockout eventually. Rather than wait for a potential issue I simply remedied this by flushing the salt build up and or nute overdose. To do so, Stop feeding and the next watering or two is nute free and of low ppm distilled or RO water which will clear it right up. Some folks prefer flushing agents and that’s a viable route as well. I typically only feed every 3rd watering which in late veg and early flower for me is once every week. I’ve found that my plants have been drinking a lot and the air flow may be too good to where it’s drying some of the soil much more rapidly than preferred. No big deal if you can water every 2-3 days. For me, The benefits of good airflow outweighs the task of watering this frequently. Plus I get to take readings and chart my grow more precisely. If you stick your finger the soil to the first knuckle and your fingertip is dry you need to water. If it’s moist like nana’s Noodles you’re okay for another day :joy:

Most important is your yield, but this should be fun. Play around and find your perfect grow and replicate it. What works for the next guy or gal may not work for you.


As usual very helpful and since early post today, Thyme has finally popped!!! Three for three in the :camping: now I have to just keep those girls alive… thanks again Sneakers

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Congrats and good luck.

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If your trying to get humidity up run lower temps… or leave the run off in your saucers… I mean low humidity is actually a good problem to have if that makes sense… lol it beats fighting high humdity cuz once mold sets or pm it’s a wrap I’d rather struggle with low humdity than anything


Also let’s not forget this is a plant that has been around for 100000000000000s of years and has adapted to be able to survive in just about every condition I would t get stuck on hitting numbers exactly … this is what I did and it drove me crazy… as it’s expensive to dial in exactly to what everything is recommended… right now I’m my temps range from 86-68 throughout a day and I’m having no issues at all… I even go a day or two in coco without watering … and it’s recommended to feed everyday and some people say multiple times a day depending on your plants… less is better in every aspect with cannabis … I would be more worried about burning your plant with rich soil and nutes… if I were you I’d wait till my plant tells me that the soil has run out of nutes then start feed… soil is a lot more difficult to flush since it doesn’t have a high oxygen retention rate such as coco and other substrates …

My original plant I took tons of clones and abused them purposely one I ran in super high heat and no feed since roots took the other was the opposite and the third I left in plain water no ph or bubbler and all three stayed alive and produced buds as normal … yes they all showed signs of stress but no Hermies and they didn’t produce a lot but all in all stayed alive and made it to the end … just some food for thought just don’t go crazy trying to get temps down to an exact stay within the range and have good airflow to prevent mold and pm and you will get good stuff… half the battle is good genetics


Awesome stuff again great help. It’s 90 outside and it’s 5:30 pm so yeah the elements are tricky in my house. I keep the ac always set at 74 with no fluctuations

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((#ItIsAlive)): :innocent: ((#HappyPlantFamily)): :smiley:



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Thanks I have Sage, Rosemary, Rosemary, and of course Thyme took its Time…

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Meet Sage, Rosemary, and Thyme…lol😎

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Guys who knows what’s a decent 5x5 grow tent?

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((#ISearchedIt)): :spider_web::computer::computer_mouse:



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They are all pretty much the same except for gorilla brand they are top quality but also top dollar … I’m using an Apollo horticulture 4x4 and a vivosun both get the job done I wouldn’t worry about brands for tents honestly they are all the same …


Merry Christmas Chris and to All:
This is the TopGrow tent from Amazon kit bottom dollar. 3 plants were planted mid October and Parsley was mid November and yes they are autos. 2 hybrids and 2 indices… probably early January… and all I know is the light came with the kit. Enjoy the pics because they have been fun growing…


I like these pics:


Thanks bro! :grinning:


Hey James! We would love to use this in a blog post we are editing for how to set up a grow tent. Would you like credit for this photo?

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