Back with an update. New growth looking much happier! Thank you for the advice @Mpower11. I will post another update over the weekend!
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Colour looks nice 
I think your on track also
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Thinking I am back on track thanks to your advice! Some signs of heat/humidity stress so I’ve bumped my temp and humidity down from 82f and 75RH to 77f and 60RH. I was trying to follow florflex tech supports suggestions with temp and humidity but the plants just don’t seem to like it. I am running 1100ppm of co2. Any thoughts?
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Well… after a few weeks I’m back for some advice. After following your previous advice, plants took off great. I ended up topping them to the 3rd node after they reached 6th or 7th node. Stunted them pretty hard but they still looked healthy. Now it’s been almost two weeks of slow growth. I’ve gradually increased doses of v1 and v2 and am up to 2 grams per gallon with a final final EC of 1.9. After 5 days the ec has raised to 2.0. No signs of nutrient burn on any plants. Bottom right plant seems to be much lighter green than the rest. I am wondering if I need to lower my ec value given it is rising after a week. Or if I should continue to up the ec value. Any input is appreciated!
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@ZillgrowDWC,
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Very useful links here! However I am having a hard time decifering if I’m facing a deficiency, toxicity or possible lockout. It seems odd at 1.9EC to have a deficiency, given this is quite a heavy feed. In one aspect I feel one plant is showing nitrogen excess (see attached photo) whereas another plant seems that it’s either locking out or showing deficiency. Being that my ph is dropping slightly over the week (from 5.9 to 5.8) and my ec is rising slightly (1.9 to 2.0 over 5 days) I am wondering if a flush would be beneficial or if I should dial back or if I should feed more…
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Flush…
Dosing rule…
Max EC = 1.4 PPM = 700 veg stage
Max EC = 1.6 PPM = 800 flower stage
PH of 5.5. - 5.8 without co2
Higher nutes = cold months
Lower nutes = hotter months
There is more information on this matter in my “Everything Flora Flex” Topic if you wanna take a look. 
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Thanks for the input! So I currently run 1100ppm co2 in veg. Room temp around 76-78 and RH is about 62-65. I am running a chiller on my dwc system with water Temps held at 66F. I will do a 24hour flush with ph’d RO water tomorrow followed by a feeding of straight ro water with cal mag to 0.3EC and v1 and v2 until I achieve 1.4EC. Thoughts? Following your link now. Thanks!
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Not recommended to do straight water flush because it throws the plant PH off even more.
The best person to ask about this part is @Mpower11 who taught me this method…
Take out haIf of the nutrient water from reservoir, add fresh water to drop EC to 1.0
Adjust ph to 5.5 -5.8
Flush plant until leach water reads same PH & EC
Now add nute water back in
Feed from 1.0 water & added nute water at 1.6 will itake you back to 1.3 - 1.4 EC & stabalize medium.
See you at Everything Flora Flex!
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I greatly appreciate you sharing. I try to be as resourceful as I can before reaching out, but I can’t seem to find good info for a flush in dwc!
I’m going to jump in and comment on a few things said above but first I have a couple questions.
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what type of light are you running (hps / led etc) Sorry if you posted it before I just forget. Also how far away is it?
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when is the last time you looked at your roots? Are they white? Are they slimy? Are they twisted? Do they smell?
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how often do you change the water?
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are you adding anything else besides V1 and V2?
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Hey @Mpower11 thanks for chiming in! I’m running a luxx 640 LED. I’m supplementing co2 at 1100ppm. Light is set at 50% and is 40 inches from canopy level. I was using power si, botanicare calmag, v1 v2 and house and garden roots excelurator. I have been using only power si, calmag and v1 v2 since your last reccomendation. Roots are nice and white. Some darker stains from the roots excelurator but no oder no slime the roots are hard not slimy the least bit. However they do seem to be twisted I suppose? I am changing water every 5 days using ro water with cal mag added to 0.3 ec. Ph is stable between 5.9 to 5.8 Here are some photos. Thanks again!
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Looks like maybe the start if it to me
More isn’t always better from my experience but I don’t really go by the books
I would drop your EC to 1.0
Your plant shows signs of stress to me but nothing crazy… I think lowering the ec is a right move for a few days and see what the plant looks like
I wouldn’t flush… Flushing can create stress! You not looking all that bad…
Can you say forsure your ph meter is good and calibrated because plant looks like Ph is off but if you are at 5.8 / 5.9 that’s perfect but the plant says no to me
Perfect RH
Perfect Water temp
Perfect temp without Co2
If you can maintain 1100 Co2 PPM get your day temp up to 85 to 88 take advantage of the Co2
If you have a Par meter get your lights around 500 PPFD take advantage of the Co2
Question for you what are you using and how for C02? Just picking your brain for idea’s… Always looking for ways to improve my c02 setup
I wouldn’t flush
@Bplatinum9 has shared alot good information here thanks for the help
Your roots look great they have a normal twist not a root rot twist
lights sounds right
5 day water change is great
Climate is perfect but not taking advantage of Co2 (but doesn’t hurt the plant)
Feed is high but not off the charts by any means.
I guess what I’m trying to say is you’re doing a pretty good job checking all the boxes and I want to learn mostly towards ph. Now also your plants don’t look way off to me.
My end thoughts are
Day temp get up to 85 to 88
Night 72
Co2 off at night
Co2 maintained 1100 ppm day
Rh is perfect at 62 to 65
Drain the water
Ro water
Cal / mag to 0.4
V1 first then / V2 to Ec 1.0
Ph to 5.8 (please confirm your metre is calibrated)
Add Nothing Else
I called this a No Stress flush your plants will thank you.
Send us a picture with a update then we can see the next move.
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Also explain how you ph your water after mixed over the 5 days if you do anything.
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@Mpower11 Wow! You my friend, are awesome. Thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed response.
For ph/ec I’m using a blurlab guardian monitor. It is cleaned and calibrated with every water change using blue labs calibration solutions.
For co2 I am currently using a titan hyperion 1 with a titan regulator and solenoid. This controller turns off co2 at night. However I am running a sealed tent, so the co2 is necessarily exhausted… throughout the night it doesn’t pump co2 in but I am also not exhausting it. Considering hooking an exhaust up for this…
My temp and humidity are controlled by inkbird controllers. As of now, I have no control over day vs night Temps. They remain the same day or night with a 2 point sway plus or minus. I’m running my tent sealed, I’ve got a heater in the tent, portable AC located outside the tent which is ducted into the tent. Humidifer and dehumidifier located inside of the tent.
I am going to bump temp up to 85 and humidity to 65 during the day and I’ll manually turn the temp down at night for now. I am trying to think of a way to control my night time temperatures automatically… possibly a second inkbird on a timer, I’ll have to put more thought into it.
When mixing nutrients I have a separate reservoir. I fill with 0ppm ro water, i have a 900GPH Danner mag drive pump mixing the water as well as an air stone. I heat the water to 68 degrees and while heating I calibrate my ph and ec probe. Then add my powersi (which I will now cut out for the time being) I let the powersi mix for an hour. Next I add my cal mag until I reach 0.3 ec (I will now be adding until 0.4ec) after letting mix for about 10 minutes and I notice the ec stabilizes, I weigh my v1 and add the v1 to a cup with a liter of my res water. I mix and allow all powder to dissolve in cup then I add to my res. Let mix for about 10 minutes again waiting for ec to stabilize. Repeat for v2. Let mix for 10 minutes then I adjust my ph by adding ph up. ( I shouldn’t need much now that I’m not using the powersi, the floraflex seems to get very close to ph of 6.) I then let the entire res mix while I empty my dwc system. I am able to remove about 90 percent of the water in the system. Next I transfer my res water to my dsw system.
The first 2 days the ph seems to drop a point every 24 hours so I add a few drops of ph up a few minutes apart u til my ec is back at 5.8 which is where I aim to maintain it. After the first 2 days the ph seems to stay stable until the 5th day it drops another point and this is the day I do my water change.
In my control bucket for the system I have two external inline pumps. One being a 900gph Danner mag drive which feeds my chiller and then returns to the control bucket. The other being a 700gph that feeds water from my control, to all 4 of my dwc buckets. In turn the system is constantly recirculating.
I do not have a PAR meter, but based on some YouTube par reviews on my light,I should be right around 400-500 par at this brightness level and height. I skimmed through a few posts you’ve made in regard to par meters. Conclusion is that there is no proper and cheap option for led lighting basically? I may look into the pulse pro next…
Thanks a million your input is invaluable! I will follow your suggestions and report back sir!
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You don’t have to exhaust Co2 out at night it will not hurt the plant just with out the light off it will not do anything for the plant… In turn wasting Co2 if dosing at night
I use Trolmaster Control for this
Honestly sounds like your doing everything 100% correct you should get some good results… I have nothing to add to this at this moment besides Ph swing isn’t a bad thing. Instead of trying to maintain 5.8 all the time let me swing from range 5.3 to 6.3 (with FloraFlex nutes)
Review this picture you will see different nutes release at different PH values… If you hold the same Ph your plants may miss out…
Also you know how you say your EC raise’s after a few days it’s raising from the PH up or down your adding.
I have not found a par meter on the market that is cheap but there is proper ones they just come at a price…
I just received my pulse pro after I have time to review it more i can let you know my thoughts on it
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Thanks for the replies! Did a res change tonight with your recommendations well see how it goes! Going to drop the temp during the nights as well. I am curious how the troll master works. Does it only send a low voltage signal to turn a device on? Or does it have 110v outlets on it? Definitely looking forward to your opinions on the pulse pro. I’ll be reporting back!
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Keep us posted.
TrolMaster support 110 and 240
I know the Aqua X has 24v but I don’t think the hydro X does.
This video will explain TrolMaster. Watch it and if you have questions let me know
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