You and I are the only two I know who have suffered through that pain @vegetato on the forum so far! As I learned the hard way and this is more now for those who read this, leave her be!! Especially in the beginning. She’s ‘really fragile’ and think more along the lines of how she’d be doing out there in the wild. These plants are hardy and really don’t need much. Stick to training your plant when she’s good and ready. Sorry for the rant on your topic vegetato! She’s a beauty!
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Count me in, I had one (cheese by seedsman) that dampened off. It was my second grow, I tried again same kind of seed and lost it too, I switched back to my original seed (Kush n cookies by garden of green) and it took off!
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((#DampingOff)):
https://www.allgrowers.com/search?q=damping%20off%20
https://www.allgrowers.com/search?q=dampened%20off
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((#ILoveThisFlower)):
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DAY 76: Flowering (Day 31/46)
She’s been on autopilot lately. I’ve only been opening the door to take pics and prune a small handful of leaves every 4-5 days. She’s also coming out fairly symmetrical and keeping a level canopy all by herself:
Some pistil pics:
DAY 78: Flowering (Day 33/46)
Every night about two hours before lights out she starts drooping a bit. That’s something I’ve observed with the other grows but this one seems to want to go to bed a bit earlier than they did.
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This is what I’m currently growing, Jack Herer Auto (fem) from Seedsman.
Day 12: Early Vegetation (Day 2/14)
Anything specific to her that you noticed besides her wanting to sleep a little earlier? Anything in particular I need to give her? Any mistakes to avoid?
I’ve given her Hydroguard on her last fill & have a cool mist mini humidifier running that keeps the humidity at around 60% (& 42% when my power bank that powers it runs out of juice) & temps stay mostly in the lower 70s, but can get as high as 79 sometimes. Water temp averages 68, but got as high as 76 at one point today.
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Looks good. Seems like a SCROG would help. Did you top her?
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One thing I’ve read and personally noticed is that somewhere around 80°F it’ll cause more stretching than you might like. For this grow I’ve been experimenting with keeping the area the grobo is in much colder, around 68-70°F most of the time letting it drift up to 73-75°F at night during lights-out.
With autos you really need to let them “do their thing” as many will say, and I’m still learning the ins/outs myself, but I’ve found that some surgical strikes at the right moments can be made to both lollipop and top them without much visible detriment or excessive healing required.
The real trick is to take very little at a time, literally only 3-5 fan leaves (including accompanying bud sites) at a time until you get a feel for it. My current SOP is to take the bottom-most set when she gets bigger than a foot or two tall, then continue with the next set up every few days until she’s lollipopped (leaving about 1 foot of canopy) then I start to prune the fan leaves from the top down and inside-out, preferring any that are stretching far out but still only taking 3-5 at a time (waiting at least a few days before taking 3-5 more).
About 30-45 minutes or maybe a bit longer than that after doing some pruning I also go back to check on the plant. If the leaves are drooping then it’s likely that too much stress was applied. If they’re not then that’s an indication that she’s not going to slow down much if at all. This is part of where experience with the strain and observing behavior of grows in your own environment happen and gets applied.
My biggest issue that is still unresolved is finding a way to keep RH up without constantly running the humidifier. When the RH is too low it seems to reduce the density of the buds, so if you can keep RH within recommended parameters that’ll help a lot.
@shadowcipher89 I will tie her apart at some point soon, she’s tripping over herself in there which has a similar effect to scrogging. Soon enough I will be ridding her of the 5-point fan leaves which will clear that jungle out quite a bit.
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I went a bit further than topping. 
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.Almost forgot to mention, my jack is from Canuk seeds
It’s possible yours is too but there may be a difference in breeder if it’s the Seedsman brand and didn’t come in Canuk packaging. That has effect on the ancestry so although similar they may not be exactly the same, YMMV. 
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It is a seedsman brand seed, thanks so much. I’m gonna use your advice and make adjustments as needed, if at all 
I just realized how different your schedule looks, even though I’m growing Jack Herer Auto. I’m using the generic hybrid recipe for autos. Which are you using?
Edit: (photo)
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I’m using the “Auto AK (Auto)” recipe for the Canuk breed.
For picking a recipe this is what I do, it’s a process that can be adjusted to work with the generic (auto) recipes as well:
- Try to prefer same breeder recipe if possible, before using Generic:
- for my Jack Herer Auto by Canuk grow I chose the Auto AK recipe by Canuk
- this has actually been my go-to recipe for any Canuk auto that doesn’t have an exact match
- my reasoning here is that they are likely using the same strain of ruderalis for their autos, so I believe this would be a closer match than a Generic recipe – if a strain (or set of strains from a particular breeder) tends to be picky about nutes/EC I’d expect that the breeder-specific recipes is where to account for that
- Look at the advertised flowering time on the breeder’s website or sticker/package/whatever, to get an idea of what the typical flowering time is:
- Based on that guideline, I’ll expect about 49-63 days of flowering time for this strain
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Going back to what is known about the schedule I can do some math to come up with an approximate range for an appropriate recipe:
- the math in this case says that the recipe should be somewhere in the range of (38+49) to (38+63) days, or 87-101 days.
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Look at the recipes section of the grobo app and browse the recipes for the same breeder if possible, by searching for the breeder name:
- The idea here is to find the closest match or one of the closest matches
- I have been leaning toward using a recipe that matches the bottom end of that range, in this case a recipe closest to 87 days of grow time (in grobo terminology).
- I also used this process when picking a recipe for “AK x Critical Mass (Auto)” from the same breeder and actually just used the same one for Jack from same breeder since it was so close in flowering time and because I had success with it multiple times. Reviewing that from this vantage point, I might’ve actually picked Blueberry if this (Jack Herer) was my first Canuk auto seed attempted.
- Past this point I make plant-specific adjustments, using the shift stage feature to extend the early vegetation and transition stages as needed.
- When I start to see “enough” white hairs appearing (roughly a week or so after the first hairs appear) is when I move from early veg to transition.
- When I see the bud sites starting to get focus/form is when I shift out of transition (usually have to add 1-2 weeks here).
- I extend those stages if the condition is not yet met or shorten them if it has been, though haven’t had to shorten either of those yet.
- I don’t try to “flip” it (as it’s an autoflower), but I do try to align the schedule/stage to when the plant itself wants to flip to ensure it’s getting appropriate (or “the best”) nutrients/lighting at the right time. Autoflowers will start to flower regardless of light but that’s only a portion of their genetics, I believe they still do require certain changes in light spectrum (such as dropping blue to minimal/adding more red when flowering starts) to acheive the best grow possible which is why I aim for that alignment.
I for one would really love some more detail about what exactly is different from recipe to recipe besides the growing time. If there are differences in lighting/EC levels/nutrient levels it’d really be good to know so we can make better (informed) decisions on this. Given the length of a grow cycle (months) a mistake at this point might not be realized or corrected until the next grow. This process is the best I have come up with in lieu of that.
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Wow, thanks for this! I looked and there are no auto recipes for seedsman strains, sadly. But based on the flowering time quoted on the seedsman site, Grobo’s generic hybrid recipe for autos seems appropriate.
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DAY 87: Flowering (Day 42/46)
Buds are starting to get bigger but looks like this is going to be a small yield in general. Smells amazing! 
DAY 100: Flowering (Day 55/60)
She’s starting to take from the leaves, gave her a final haircut to get more light down below and moved to flush. Flowering has been extended a couple times already. 
Looks like a little bit of 
!
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What do you mean by “decapitating” her?
Decapitating is when topping also remove the 2 (not yet developed) nodes that would become the two new shoots. It’s often done by accident, which is how I stumbled across the technique.
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I see, thank you
Here’s what this current grow looks like at the base a couple of months after the decap:
My last grobo grow a stem tried to grow from the stump, but in this case it just wilted.
In my tent I also did this, and it closed up nicely:
I also did it on grow #4 in grobo but don’t have many good pics of that area from that grow.
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I’m a little fearful of using aggressive methods on my first grow, especially since it’s an auto, but it seems like it worked really well for you so maybe I’ll give it a shot.
Do you happen to have a screenshot of your final recipe after having adjusted it throughout your grow? I know your seed is from a different breeder, but it’d still be nice to compare its schedule with my seed’s development.