Thanks for the advice once again my friend. I have acquired a 4l bottle of optic foliar overgrow ready to spray. Will be spraying tonight once lights go out. I’ll cut the fans for 20 minutes as well. Going to do a res top off with the same 1.0ec mixture I’ve been using this week. I’ll report back!
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Good show!! You don’t fool around 4L lol. That’s a lot of spray
Just out of curiosity did you ask your local store what there thoughts are on Overgrow?
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It was $32.00 for 1l ready to spray in a spray bottle. Or $50 for the 4L ready to spray without a spray bottle. I figured I may as well go for the 4l! Unfortunately my local store isn’t so great for advice. Very few employees know all of the products and the few that do generally aren’t very helpful. Basically try to sell you on the whole store LOL. On top of that, I try to minimize my time in the store due to the risk of pests. I called and had it held at the counter. Walked in paid and walked out! A quick change of clothes before heading back in the house. Call me paranoid lol… I did some digging last night and this product seems to have a great reputation. Apparently some people use this as their sole source of feed in some applications. Interesting! Im excited to see some results. Do you generally go with a light mist? Douse them heavily? Something in between?!? Thanks!
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Yes it’s best I have used to date. I normally mist lighter side because you can always mist again but your can’t take away. But maybe since your looking for fast results I would spray until wet
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Not sure if you ever make or see clones how the leafs turn yellow. If you spray your clones with Overgrow the plant don’t feed on the leafs… Your clones will look great
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Back with an update. After running 1.1 ec which creeped to 1.2, I’ve lowered ec again to 0.9 with only 0.3ec cal mag and v1/v2. Ph to 6.0 and let drop to 5.4 before ph back to 6.0. I’ve foliar sprayed twice in the last 4 days. I see a bit of tip burn on new growth of one plant as seen in photos. Tacoing seems to be getting worse on the one that had always shown signs of heat stress. I brought my microscope out to check for russets because the tacoing certainly looks like it. No bugs after a thorough inspection. I am starting to think maybe these plants are locking out? My EC never drops over the course of a week and the plants are drinking quite a bit. Although I also don’t notice the ec ever spiking. It seems to rise a point between res changes which is probably from my ph up… Any suggestions? Thanks!
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I’m thinking it’s not lockout because its really hard to lockout your plants in DWC unless your Ph is off but it sounds like it’s never has been off…
Let’s chat about this for a second then we chat about feed etc again
How close is your light?
How many watts is it I’m guessing it’s LED?
Is it dimmed or maxed out?
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Also what is your Day and Night temp?
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So my light is 38 inches from the canopy currently. It’s a luxx 645 led. It draws near 700 watts from the wall. I’ve got it dimmed to 50 percent currently which should be around 450PAR at this height. During the day my Temps have been ranging from 82-85f and RH of 60-65. Night Temps ranging from 70-72f with RH of 50-55. Water temp remains 66-67f although I do have the ability to cool it further if desired. I’m holding co2 ppm between 1150 and 1250ppm throughout the day. Light cycle is currently 20 on 4 off…
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Also… today I notice my ph dropping quicker than usual. Last night after res change my ec was 0.9 I switched to ppm 700 scale and was reading 610ppm. When I did the res change my ph was 6.0. Now today 12 hours later my ph is at 5.5 and ppm at 640…
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I was hunting around for more clues on what could be wrong
All your temps / Rh / water temp / PH / Height of light sound spot on to me…
Honestly you have everything dialed in…
Since overgrow didn’t darken up the Fan leafs I would back off a bit on the overgrow for at least 4 days see what they look like after that…
With Co2 in Veg you should be able to run 450 np. I’m running 375 to 400 right now with 1300ppm
Next thing to try I’m thinking is lighting (running out of idea’s everything you tell me is spot on correct)
Correct me if I’m wrong it’s only yellow on the top only??
To rule out light stress I would drop your light to 350 4 to 5 days see how they look… I would also make the change to 18/6… These light values are not low so your not going to lose anything
Ec target 1.2 to 1.4 (I think I would stay on the lower side until solved)
The only other thing I can comment on is your swing is alot… To jump from 5.5 to 6.0 in 12 hours is alot
From my experience bacteria in DWC system would cause the swing most of the time… This is why I will not grow in DWC but that’s just me…
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Back with an update after some weeks. I still haven’t figured my issue out completely. I’ve slowly bumped ec down waiting to see a decrease showing me the plants were eating more than drinking, in which case I planned to gradually increase the ec. I made it all the way down to 0.7 ec and saw no decrease in ppm. My big issue here now is my ppm stays the same, water goes down and ph goes down from 6 to 5.4 daily. I am looking for ph to rise and plants are eating and I have yet to make it happen. Unfortunately my time has run short I have to start flower now or I am in some trouble with height. With that being said Mark… when you switch to flower do you typically start running b1/b2 immediately after switching to 12/12? Or do you continue v1/v2 for the first week on 12/12? The girls look healthy I’ll have to upload some photos tonight. Just not perfect and thriving to my liking 
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If your Ec lowers your Ppm should lower with it. Ec/ppm are the same things just a different form of measurement. It’s like saying Celsius and Fahrenheit same thing.
I change to B1/B2 the same day or within 2 to 3 days later. (Normal I try to make the switch same time I need to make more nutes)
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Thanks for the reply Mark! I’m aware ec/ppm are measurements of the same thing. I’ve been reading ppm so I can more easy tell what the water is doing. A 10 or 20 ppm drop won’t show on the EC but ppm will show it. I’ve done a lot more digging into hydroponic water chemistry this past week. My ph should rise as the plants drink. It never has. Which has be super confused. My water level should lower, ec/ppm stay the same and ph should increase… my PH is dropping from 6 to 5.5 every 12 hours. I suspected possibly bacteria like you had mentioned so I’ve been using current culture uc roots for the past week. No change. I’ve decided to live with it and chalk this one up as a learning experience. Well see how flower goes. The plants look better than most hobbyist grows I see but I was really shooting for perfection. I’ll keep some updates coming as time progresses!
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5 days into flower and I think we’re making a turn for the better. 1.3EC seems to be the sweet spot right now. Plants are drinking, ph is increasing as they drink and EC is remaining the same. Canopy starting to fill in nicely
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Looks really nice to me… If they were my plants I wouldn’t do any trimming until Day 21 of flower now…
On day 21 go in hard
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What does it look like under the net?
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I planned on defoliation about day 20 myself so that sounds good! I hit them pretty hard before flower mostly down to 2 nodes. I left a couple short stalks I wish i hadn’t now but we’ll see if they make it to the net during the stretch. I plan to add a second layer of netting today so I won’t have to tie up any colas down the road.
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Looks good under the net also…
Day 20 or 21 no different 
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I have the same rdwc system and I’m have the same problem you had going on. Water level drops, ppm stays the same, ph drops. I keep lowering the ppm because I was told these systems need a lower ppm if your not using current cultures cultured solutions nutrients. Im running 20 gal total and have to add about 1 gallon a day. I add just ro water to bring the ppm down and the ph back up. I’m at 730ppm on the 700 scale and 5.8-6.2 ph
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