@Merle_Carsten what this a complete statement or did I miss something?
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I’d leave the calmag out and she how she responds. Do you check your ppm/ph on your old water before you change it? Just wondering what kind of drift you’re getting.
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You may have some pH issues. But is very well may be magnesium deficiency, or a little of both.
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Ppm normally stays the same and ph will go up. Not a huhe swing up, just goes up a little each day, starts at about 5.6 and slowly moves up to 6.5 by the end of the week. For these everything is just staying the same the hole week.
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I’m using advanced nutrients pH perfect technology, which works very well, I check the pH daily and it’s always within range 5.5-6.5. most of the time when I don’t have any issues the ppm stays the same and the ph slowly goes up over the week.
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Ok did a water change
20 gallon RDWC
RO water starting ppm 5
Water temp 65
Half strength advanced nutrients
Micro, grow, bloom 150ml each
Hydroguard 40ml
No calmag
PH 5.65
PPM 550
EC 1.1
2 Mars hydro ts1000 @ 60% power 28" away
Pic from top and side of each for comparison in a couple days.
(They are getting worse let’s hope this helps, finger crossed)
Plant 1
Plant 2
Plant 3
Plant 4
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That’s the way it’s supposed to be. If your PPM’s were swinging or your PH was it could give some info - but it sounds like its uptaking everything correctly. How much did she drink the prev week? It does have tell-tale signs of light bleaching, but at 28" @ 50% that seems like a tough sell.
I’m still thinking it was too much Calcium. Do you always add Calmag to your AN line? Are you using anything other than the base nutes?
I’d see how she responds. Your EC is certainly in range. You can also give AN a call from the number on the side of the bottle. They’ve been helpful in the past.
My message stopped and it sorta froz
Not sure how much they drank. I don’t use anything else with the AN but hydroguard. I usually don’t use calmag but had another plant that was doing the same thing and calmag fixed it so I figured I would just start with the calmag this round. I though about the lights s well and ruled that out. I guess we will see what happens in a day or two.
I emailed AN with the same pictures and this was there respond… Not sure if I agree with what they think it is or the temp range they suggested. I’ve always read 72 degrees max.
I keep it 72 and below
AN response
Thank you for your email.
The roots shown appear to have the onset of pythium beginning.
This is likely due to the water temperature. Ideally it should be kept at 66-68°F as temperatures of 70°F and above are a breeding ground for root rot/pythium and other pathogens.
In regards to supplementing with cal/mag the base nutrients will have enough for your grow’s purposes with RO water.
To resolve your root issue;
Drain entire reservoir, take pH water of 5.5-5.7 pour on top of medium at top of plants where they go into rockwool etc. drain that out too.
Wipe down reservoir, fill with water.
Add 15mL or 3 tsp of 28% hydrogen peroxide for every 1 gallon of water.
Run that through system. Take one jug of water out of reservoir and apply to each plant directly at root zone, let that run for two hours.
After two hours dump bucket out, run pH water through top of plant/container and dump it out, fill up with water, replace with nutrients and all root rot should be dead.
The brown will still be there but the slime should be gone from the root zone.
After three days, open the bucket up and take a look and you should see bright white new roots starting to grow.
Then ensure temperatures are kept at 66-68°F in best efforts to avoid running in to this situation again.
Please let us know if you have any further questions.
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One other thing to mention is that you shouldn’t cut off the leaves that are showing deficiencies until you are certain that you’ve identified & resolved the problem.
When the plant can’t get nutrients from the water it will take them from the leaves.
When you take away the leaves it’s using for food (by cutting them off), it’ll start taking from the next set up.
Wait for the problem to stop before trimming those leaves. I usually wait until they will fall off on their own from just a slight tap down on the stem.
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I’m not a huge fan of AN, their stuff is OK but watered down and way overpriced.
Something I started doing in my tent grow was use ZeroTol HC instead of Hydroguard. I used about .25 mL per gallon. I’ve used 0.5 mL per gallon and it didn’t have any negative affects on my plants. @chris_barfield brought this stuff to my attention in a post last year, and quite frankly I frequently sit here scratching my head wondering why I didn’t start using it sooner. You only need to add it 1 time a week during water changes, but keep in mind H2O2 breaks down after 3-5 days. Sometimes I will add an extra 0.25 - 0.5 mL after 3-4 days when I replenish the water in my reservoir.
This would probably work very well with the Grobo, just trim the dose down to around 0.25 mL per gallon. Manufactures recommended does for normal use is 10 mL per 50 gallons.
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Ya I started with AN because I freind gave it to me, seemed to work well as far as keeping the ph in range but yes I have learned that it is expensive. I am definitely going to swit h when what I have is gone. I have been looking at jacks123, specifically the one designed for RO water. I’ve never heard of the stuff you mentioned but I’m going to Google it right now!
https://www.jacksnutrients.com/online-store/Pure-%26-Simple-p101469418
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That’s it!
Update:
Not sure if the water change and less nutes did any good???
Ph 5.65, ppm 569, ec 1.156
Plant 1
Plant 2
Plant 3
Plant 4
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Your pH is too low, it should be hovering around 6.0, I keep the pH in my tent reservoir at 5.8 during bloom, and between 6.0 and 6.2 during veg. If you keep it too low it will lock out nutes like magnesium and phosphorus. I had a pic with the ranges in which plants absorb nutes based on the pH but I cannot seem to find it.
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With the advanced nutrients it usually starts out at 5.65 and slowly goes up over the week to 6.5 and the ppm stays the same which should be a good thing from what I understand. It this the chart?
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I just checked out and it’s at 6.02…
I’m so confused as to why these are doing this…
If it was me, and just speaking frankly, I wouldn’t let my nute solution go below 5.8 or higher than 6.3. Too many potential issues with nutes getting locked out. I let mine vary from 5.8 to 6.2 week to week to ensure nothing get’s locked out.
If you look at the Mg and Ca you will notice that they can be locked out if your pH is too low. The only time I focus on keeping my pH as close to 5.8 as possible is during flower so they get as much potash/phosphorous as possible.
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