Is this going to be a problem?

When I transplanted these clones I put the root tail through one netpot hole. Will this eventually strangle the roots? Does that have anything to do with them looking like this?
This is in a 20 gallon RDWC

RO water starting 5ppm
Water temp 68-71
PH stays between 5.5-6.5
Advanced nutrients
3/4 strength micro, grow, bloom
Full strength hydro guard
Full strength calmag
Under mars hydro ts1000 28" away 75% power


The only time those browning leaves can be harmful is when there is root issues with it.
The roots healthy, Personally I wouldn’t worry about it unless there is a lot of it and like I said its paired with a root issue. Everything looks good to me!


I was not going to move them again, that should be there forever home!

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They are starting the should signs of yellowing and have the drooping leaves… This is the same thing my last one did that I fixed by getting and adding calmag. These already have the calmag So I’m not sure why they’re starting to do this…

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This is the one that I fixed before and these are starting the show the same signs…
Before calmag

Now after the calmag a few days later


Too much nitrogen or Cal/Meg problem…


Your roots will be fine.
If you add too much calmag to the AN line (it’s’ supposed to have enough of everything with the base nutes) it may have too much calcium and it can actually cause the plant to not be able to uptake the magnesium - that’s kinda what this looks like - cause everything else seems pretty dialed in. What’s your PPM/EC?


When the leaves get yellow from the middle out means not enough Cal/Meg… When your leaves are burnt on edge and going bright to the middle means too much Cal/Meg.
Just add a little more C/M. And wait a few days until you get it adjusted in a darker green. it might take you a couple times but I always add cal-mag under what is said to put in because it really can lock your roots up the way I grow in Cocoa if it gets dry so I got to go down in a few minutes myself and dump 4 gallons of nutrients into each pot and then a gallon in each of my clones and then a gallon and one of my seeds from last year that I got from last year’s crop and my Autoflower Purple Rain I got to thin her out and give her her flowering watering cuz she’s starting to show pistols and I want her to be real beefy


Ppm is around 600-650.
Today is water change day. Should I do a change and leave the calmag out but still do the same strength nutrients or do they need a day or two flush first?


@Merle_Carsten what this a complete statement or did I miss something?


I’d leave the calmag out and she how she responds. Do you check your ppm/ph on your old water before you change it? Just wondering what kind of drift you’re getting.


You may have some pH issues. But is very well may be magnesium deficiency, or a little of both.


Ppm normally stays the same and ph will go up. Not a huhe swing up, just goes up a little each day, starts at about 5.6 and slowly moves up to 6.5 by the end of the week. For these everything is just staying the same the hole week.


I’m using advanced nutrients pH perfect technology, which works very well, I check the pH daily and it’s always within range 5.5-6.5. most of the time when I don’t have any issues the ppm stays the same and the ph slowly goes up over the week.

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Ok did a water change
20 gallon RDWC
RO water starting ppm 5
Water temp 65
Half strength advanced nutrients
Micro, grow, bloom 150ml each
Hydroguard 40ml
No calmag
PH 5.65
PPM 550
EC 1.1
2 Mars hydro ts1000 @ 60% power 28" away
Pic from top and side of each for comparison in a couple days.
(They are getting worse let’s hope this helps, finger crossed)
Plant 1

Plant 2

Plant 3

Plant 4


That’s the way it’s supposed to be. If your PPM’s were swinging or your PH was it could give some info - but it sounds like its uptaking everything correctly. How much did she drink the prev week? It does have tell-tale signs of light bleaching, but at 28" @ 50% that seems like a tough sell.
I’m still thinking it was too much Calcium. Do you always add Calmag to your AN line? Are you using anything other than the base nutes?

I’d see how she responds. Your EC is certainly in range. You can also give AN a call from the number on the side of the bottle. They’ve been helpful in the past.

My message stopped and it sorta froz

Not sure how much they drank. I don’t use anything else with the AN but hydroguard. I usually don’t use calmag but had another plant that was doing the same thing and calmag fixed it so I figured I would just start with the calmag this round. I though about the lights s well and ruled that out. I guess we will see what happens in a day or two.

I emailed AN with the same pictures and this was there respond… Not sure if I agree with what they think it is or the temp range they suggested. I’ve always read 72 degrees max.
I keep it 72 and below

AN response
Thank you for your email.

The roots shown appear to have the onset of pythium beginning.

This is likely due to the water temperature. Ideally it should be kept at 66-68°F as temperatures of 70°F and above are a breeding ground for root rot/pythium and other pathogens.

In regards to supplementing with cal/mag the base nutrients will have enough for your grow’s purposes with RO water.

To resolve your root issue;

Drain entire reservoir, take pH water of 5.5-5.7 pour on top of medium at top of plants where they go into rockwool etc. drain that out too.

Wipe down reservoir, fill with water.

Add 15mL or 3 tsp of 28% hydrogen peroxide for every 1 gallon of water.

Run that through system. Take one jug of water out of reservoir and apply to each plant directly at root zone, let that run for two hours.

After two hours dump bucket out, run pH water through top of plant/container and dump it out, fill up with water, replace with nutrients and all root rot should be dead.

The brown will still be there but the slime should be gone from the root zone.

After three days, open the bucket up and take a look and you should see bright white new roots starting to grow.

Then ensure temperatures are kept at 66-68°F in best efforts to avoid running in to this situation again.

Please let us know if you have any further questions.


One other thing to mention is that you shouldn’t cut off the leaves that are showing deficiencies until you are certain that you’ve identified & resolved the problem.

When the plant can’t get nutrients from the water it will take them from the leaves.

When you take away the leaves it’s using for food (by cutting them off), it’ll start taking from the next set up.

Wait for the problem to stop before trimming those leaves. I usually wait until they will fall off on their own from just a slight tap down on the stem.